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Andrew's Theory Vids
Dscott
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November 12, 2013 - 7:19 pm
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Just wanted to give kudos to Andrew on the hand reading and getting paid video series.  Both were absolutely awesome.  Well planned and thought out, the technical explanation's were extremely helpful.  Well done Andrew, oh and btw answer my email lol.  I look forward to your upcoming theory videos.  Thanks again,

bennymacca
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November 13, 2013 - 8:34 am
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andrew is the shit. best coach on here imo

Dscott
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November 13, 2013 - 8:48 am
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bennymacca said:

andrew is the shit. best coach on here imo

Totally agree benny.  I have limited experience on here so I haven't had the opportunity to delve into very many of the other coaches series but I enjoy the “classroom like” approach that Andrew takes.

michae1di11on
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November 13, 2013 - 4:17 pm
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I subscribed about a year ago and really liked the site. I have to say though, the new coaches and videos from older coaches over the past year have just got better and better. There have been some amazing videos posted over the past year

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Killingbird
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November 13, 2013 - 5:47 pm
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thanks so much guys!  We are always trying to find ways to improve, and that of course includes the addition of new pros with new and different approaches (both to playing and coaching).

 

We have a few more in the works, so stay tuned…and thanks again for the kinds words. It means a lot!!

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Carlos
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November 30, 2013 - 10:16 pm
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+97 on the comment about Andrew's videos. (+1 is too “standard” and +100 just seems fake. +97 is a prime number so it conveys sincerity)

 

Not only is he an EXCELLENT poker teacher, he is also an all around good dude who embodies the spirit of TPE. You're never gonna see him type “in before lock” or “rtff” on one of your noob questions. I'm gonna make sure he sees this.

 

Another thing that makes him a great teacher is that he consistently answers follow up questions. He has stated that if you have questions, just post them in the forum and email him so he knows they are there and he will get around to it when he can.

 

With that said, this is as good a post as any to do that so Andrew I have a question about one of your vids…

 

 

…..ng-part-3/

At 18:00, we have 96o in the the BB and it's checked around to a limper 3 way.

Flop is 688. You say this is a good spot to check to induce a bluff rather than value bet, which I understand.

 

My question is once villain bluffs in this spot, would we be better off raising to have him fold away the good bit of equity he has or should we just call his stab? I think check raising lets us pick off a bluff while at the same time protecting us from overcards on the turn.

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Carlos
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December 3, 2013 - 4:42 pm
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In case anyone is wondering, I am going back through all of Andrew's old vids and rewatching them. As I understand more about poker, questions arise that I hadnt thought of the first time. I think he checks the forum more regularly during the weeks he has a video series out so it may be awhile before he gets around to these.

 

…..os-part-2/

At 22:00, you limp JJ UTG, it folds around, and both blinds go to the flop.

Flop AT9 with a club flush draw. They check, you bet, and the BB calls.

Turn 7 hearts. BB checks, you bet, and BB calls.

River 2 clubs. BB checks and you check behind.

 

My question is if we expect our hand to be good and we dont expect villain to bluff raise with worse, should we always make the thin value bet on the river?

 

In a previous video, you talked about how thin value betting makes you harder to read.  So if you do get called, observant players wont be able to put you on a polarized range in future river bets and you get to note that villain is a hero. If you dont get called, observant players wont get the information from seeing your cards.

 

Seems like these benefits are even more valuable than the chips you gain; and against straight forward players, there doesn't seem to be much of a downside to always value betting thinly when your hand is towards the top or your marginal range.

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December 3, 2013 - 4:47 pm
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Thanks, gang. Unbeknownst to him, Carlos brought this thread to my attention after a particularly frustrating couple of days of poker, so this was really nice to see. I'm currently working on a new theory series to complement the hand reading and value betting ones, so hopefully I can keep upping the ante in terms of quality.

Carlos I answered your question in the forum for that video: …..ng-part-3/

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Carlos
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December 3, 2013 - 5:38 pm
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I'm glad that I could provide some of tilt relief. It's the least I could do after that trip recharged my poker batteries.

 

I dont think many people use the comments section once the video is more than a few months old so I will copy your answer here if you dont mind. Also, I hope by keeping this thread alive (and I will) it will inspire new members to go back and watch your old videos and not just the current ones. I also hope to get Pie Farmer and Breyer more involved. They both have jobs that keep them busy so maybe this can be a place for our Foucault study sessions.

 

Andrew's Response to the 96o hand:

I don’t think raising is a terrible idea, but it kind of turns your hand into a bluff in the sense that you don’t really need a 6 to do it. Either he folds and your hand doesn’t matter, or he calls and you are drawing pretty thin against whatever he does have. I’d rather raise with hands that aren’t good enough to call, so unless you are already check-raise bluffing all of your air and still looking to have a wider bluffing range (which could possibly be correct), I don’t think this hand needs to be thrown in there.

 

As I understand it, the idea here is to have bluff raising ranges, calling ranges, value raising ranges, folding ranges, etc. and build them with the proper number and types of combos that will give you a good balance. And this hand is too good to bluff and not good enough to raise for value, so it belongs in the calling range.

 

I cant think of many hands I would want in a calling range on this board besides draws and some monsters because marginal hands like this one are almost always gonna face tough decisions on future streets when overcards, straight cards, and flush cards come.

 

It may be a leak but I see a small 6x here as a bluff catcher that will almost always have to be folded by the river if he keeps bluffing. It's not good enough to call with on future streets, but too good to fold now, so I end up turning it into a bluff to protect it sort of like a merge/blocking bet hybrid.

 

Maybe it's not worth getting fancy to protect such a weak hand and it's better to just call once and hope he doesnt keep bluffing or catch up for free. If that's the case, maybe hands like A6,77,99 could be raised for protection/value instead because they may be ahead of his calling range on the flop.

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December 4, 2013 - 10:43 pm
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Anyone interested in starting a hand reading group using Andrews method outlined in his videos I’m working my way through these now we could post a hand with hole cards hidden and try to get some practice in. I think this could help plug some leaks I have like overplaying over pairs mid pairs etc and just generally improve my play

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December 5, 2013 - 10:58 am
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loxxii said:

In case anyone is wondering, I am going back through all of Andrew's old vids and rewatching them. As I understand more about poker, questions arise that I hadnt thought of the first time. I think he checks the forum more regularly during the weeks he has a video series out so it may be awhile before he gets around to these.

 

…..os-part-2/

At 22:00, you limp JJ UTG, it folds around, and both blinds go to the flop.

Flop AT9 with a club flush draw. They check, you bet, and the BB calls.

Turn 7 hearts. BB checks, you bet, and BB calls.

River 2 clubs. BB checks and you check behind.

 

My question is if we expect our hand to be good and we dont expect villain to bluff raise with worse, should we always make the thin value bet on the river?

 

In a previous video, you talked about how thin value betting makes you harder to read.  So if you do get called, observant players wont be able to put you on a polarized range in future river bets and you get to note that villain is a hero. If you dont get called, observant players wont get the information from seeing your cards.

 

Seems like these benefits are even more valuable than the chips you gain; and against straight forward players, there doesn't seem to be much of a downside to always value betting thinly when your hand is towards the top or your marginal range.

Good question. A bet is well worth considering here. I can tell you a few of the factors that led me not to bet, though I don't mean to argue that betting would be a mistake:

1. Probably having the best hand isn't sufficient reason to bet. You have to get called by worse more than 50% of the time. If your opponent is going to fold most of the hands you beat, then it doesn't make sense to bet, especially on the river. There are a lot of ways he could be calling flop and turn with some sort of draw or combo draw that is now going to fold. So that's a big chunk of hands we could get value from on the flop and turn that we can't on the river. I also wouldn't rule out his having an Ace, though they more confident you are that he would bet that on the flop, the more inclined you should be to value bet.

2. I make (or believe I should make, anyway ;-)) fewer thin value bets in tournaments than in cash games. This is both because of my own risk aversion – by definition, a thin value bet means you'll have a small edge, and on the river we're usually talking about a relatively large bet – and my opponent's presumed risk aversion. People make fewer thin calls in tournaments, which means you should make fewer thin value bets.

3. I don't think the potential image/information concealment benefits of a thin value bet are more valuable than the chips you gain. So if I don't think it's otherwise a good bet, I wouldn't do it solely for those reasons.

Again, that's just the case against it – I don't think it's necessarily a bad idea here.

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December 5, 2013 - 11:02 am
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loxxii said:

I cant think of many hands I would want in a calling range on this board besides draws and some monsters because marginal hands like this one are almost always gonna face tough decisions on future streets when overcards, straight cards, and flush cards come.

 

It may be a leak but I see a small 6x here as a bluff catcher that will almost always have to be folded by the river if he keeps bluffing. It's not good enough to call with on future streets, but too good to fold now, so I end up turning it into a bluff to protect it sort of like a merge/blocking bet hybrid.

 

Maybe it's not worth getting fancy to protect such a weak hand and it's better to just call once and hope he doesnt keep bluffing or catch up for free. If that's the case, maybe hands like A6,77,99 could be raised for protection/value instead because they may be ahead of his calling range on the flop.

Not every hand in your bluff-catching range has to be good enough to take to the river against a triple barrel. You are supposed to have a range for calling once and folding turn, a range for calling twice and folding river, etc. The only reason you wouldn't would be to exploit an overaggressive opponent who you know will just barrel-barrel-barrel. And against that player, I'd prefer just to check-call him all the way with this hand anyway.

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December 5, 2013 - 11:04 am
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icantmtt said:

Anyone interested in starting a hand reading group using Andrews method outlined in his videos I'm working my way through these now we could post a hand with hole cards hidden and try to get some practice in. I think this could help plug some leaks I have like overplaying over pairs mid pairs etc and just generally improve my play

If you start a thread or forum for this purpose, I'll do my best to participate in the discussion. Glad you find the method worthy of studying in this way!

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December 5, 2013 - 2:58 pm
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Thanks. Learned some new things here I'd never heard before.

 

1. Value bet more thinly in cash than in tournaments.

2. Having different calling ranges for each street. This one kinda blew my mind. I understand changing my plan depending on how the board runs out but if you mean on the flop I need to have an idea of which hands are worth 1,2, or 3 calls before the other streets even come out, I am further behind than I thought in range vs range thinking.

 

Great answers.

 

Good idea, icantmtt. I may just post a hand or two like that in the strategy forum. Actually, a few people have done hidden hole cards in the past but I am trying to make an effort to use Andrew's terminology. I did change the term Monster to Nuts (used loosely of course*)  so that I can abbreviate without confusing Monsters (M) with Marginals (M). My note pad has lines like

“He just called here so he probably has M and not N or A.”

 

* I am not too mature to admit I noticed the humor in loose nuts.

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December 5, 2013 - 5:07 pm
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Ha! I am dying over here. I just heard Andrew's answer to my thin value betting question when it was asked of him

 

THREE EFFIN YEARS AGO!

 

On the 2+2 podcast. God I cant even imagine how behind everyone else I must be if I am just now learning that.

 

I am hereby no longer a professional poker player. I am an unemployed full time poker student. I have to focus so I can catch up.

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December 9, 2013 - 2:08 pm
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Let me suggest an exercise to you that helped to crystallize this as well as other concepts in my mind. Ask yourself, if my opponent knew my strategy (meaning every hand you could have here and how you would play each), how could he exploit it?

 

If your opponent knew that, whenever you call the flop, you're never going to fold a blank turn, why would he ever bluff the turn? So then maybe you decide that since he'll never bluff blank turns, you'll never bluff-catch them. But then of course your opponent should always bluff them.

 

This is where balance comes in. If you have a range of hands that will continue on blank turns and a range that will fold blank turns, then you won't be exploited no matter what your opponent does. Of course you can do even better than that if you're able to predict whether your opponent will or won't bluff on a blank turn, but without that exploitable read, the best you can do is try to fold and not-fold in accordance with the pot odds you're offered on each street.

 

loxxii said:

 

2. Having different calling ranges for each street. This one kinda blew my mind. I understand changing my plan depending on how the board runs out but if you mean on the flop I need to have an idea of which hands are worth 1,2, or 3 calls before the other streets even come out, I am further behind than I thought in range vs range thinking.

 

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December 11, 2013 - 10:33 am
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I'd suggest a different thread and use this one only for questions on Andrew's vids so that he wont have to dig through too many posts to answer general questions. Maybe just use the strategy forum and indicate that you want us to categorize your and villain's hand into the proper “Brokos Box”. Sounds like fun.

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March 12, 2014 - 1:03 pm
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As usual I'm way out in left field but just wanted to add my heartfelt thanks to Andrew….I've spent the last couple of weeks immersed in the 3 theory series and my results graph for micro MTT's has changed from a plunging red line to a green mountain! I think it's more than just variance…..so exciting as I think I have only started to develop better skills. My whole way of thinking about hands is developing at an accelerated pace….

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March 20, 2014 - 2:29 pm
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i don't remember seeing this thread…soooo THANK YOU for bumping it. can't wait to read through this. need to watch these theory vids. it's been either a long time or i haven't watched all the parts. doing it.

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March 31, 2014 - 8:34 pm
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peppergrinder said:

As usual I'm way out in left field but just wanted to add my heartfelt thanks to Andrew….I've spent the last couple of weeks immersed in the 3 theory series and my results graph for micro MTT's has changed from a plunging red line to a green mountain! I think it's more than just variance…..so exciting as I think I have only started to develop better skills. My whole way of thinking about hands is developing at an accelerated pace….

Thanks PG, that's awesome to hear! Hope things continue to go well for you.

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May 22, 2014 - 6:48 pm
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icantmtt said:

Anyone interested in starting a hand reading group using Andrews method outlined in his videos I'm working my way through these now we could post a hand with hole cards hidden and try to get some practice in. I think this could help plug some leaks I have like overplaying over pairs mid pairs etc and just generally improve my play

Has something like this been started, and if so can I get in?  (Sorry if there is some easy way I could have searched for it, but I've been mostly a lurker for my year of membership and am trying now to get more pro-active about my education)
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May 22, 2014 - 7:37 pm
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[I think from Carlos' comment above that this is the right place to post this, but if I'm wrong and I should put it in the Value-Targeting video comments or even in the general strategy forum, let me know]

 

Let's say you've watched all of Andrew's Hand Reading and Value Targeting vids, and you've mastered the concepts therein (half of those characteristics are true of me)…

 

You are last to act holding the nuts on the river, and you believe that the best hand to target in villain's range is strong enough to call a 2xPot overbet. Most of your opponents at the table, including villain, are very strong observant players, who have presumably noted that you are a thinking player who seems balance-aware. Would you ever consider betting a lesser amount because in a similar spot with a good bluffing hand you don't want to risk 2xPot on a bluff?  And then the obvious more general followup question: in a less crystal-clear example, do you ever/often give up some EV from a value-bet in order to balance (protect?) your *future* bluffs by making them less expensive/risky?  

 

My answer is no, I'm never going to leave significant immediate money on the table now just to possibly give me a more profitable or less risky opportunity later.  I might make my value-bet size bigger or smaller “to make it look more bluffy”, and that might or might not relate to hands villain has seen me play in the past, but it is still an attempt to maximize immediate EV.  

 

I think I'm grappling (awkwardly) with the concept of “protecting another part of my range”, which is not generally part of my thinking process at the table.  Maybe I've just cooked up an unlikely/unhelpful outlier case in which a desire to protect future hand ranges' balance has a clear-cut and immediate cost, whereas “you should 4-bet Aces to protect your light 4-bets” is more fuzzy because 4-betting AA has some pluses and some minuses and it's hard to quantify how much (if anything) you're giving up by not slowplaying them.

 

[Andrew if you read this, “huge” @ TPE is one and the same as “Luckbox Larry”, recent TP podcast correspondent. Knowing that I'm sure you'll see the sideways connection between this post and our email exchange – though I don't think it's the same question]

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May 23, 2014 - 2:40 pm
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Have to be honest here. I have tried many different training sites over the last 3 years.  Lot of good pros on this site that make a lot of good vids.  Andrew is in a different class. His “Theory Videos” have allowed me to play many spots and not just my cards.  Thanks Andrew.

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May 25, 2014 - 9:16 pm
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huge said:

[I think from Carlos' comment above that this is the right place to post this, but if I'm wrong and I should put it in the Value-Targeting video comments or even in the general strategy forum, let me know]

 

Let's say you've watched all of Andrew's Hand Reading and Value Targeting vids, and you've mastered the concepts therein (half of those characteristics are true of me)…

 

You are last to act holding the nuts on the river, and you believe that the best hand to target in villain's range is strong enough to call a 2xPot overbet. Most of your opponents at the table, including villain, are very strong observant players, who have presumably noted that you are a thinking player who seems balance-aware. Would you ever consider betting a lesser amount because in a similar spot with a good bluffing hand you don't want to risk 2xPot on a bluff?  And then the obvious more general followup question: in a less crystal-clear example, do you ever/often give up some EV from a value-bet in order to balance (protect?) your *future* bluffs by making them less expensive/risky?  

 

My answer is no, I'm never going to leave significant immediate money on the table now just to possibly give me a more profitable or less risky opportunity later.  I might make my value-bet size bigger or smaller “to make it look more bluffy”, and that might or might not relate to hands villain has seen me play in the past, but it is still an attempt to maximize immediate EV.  

 

I think I'm grappling (awkwardly) with the concept of “protecting another part of my range”, which is not generally part of my thinking process at the table.  Maybe I've just cooked up an unlikely/unhelpful outlier case in which a desire to protect future hand ranges' balance has a clear-cut and immediate cost, whereas “you should 4-bet Aces to protect your light 4-bets” is more fuzzy because 4-betting AA has some pluses and some minuses and it's hard to quantify how much (if anything) you're giving up by not slowplaying them.

 

[Andrew if you read this, “huge” @ TPE is one and the same as “Luckbox Larry”, recent TP podcast correspondent. Knowing that I'm sure you'll see the sideways connection between this post and our email exchange – though I don't think it's the same question]

The very straightforward answer to this specific question is no, I wouldn't worry about that exactly. But in future spots against opponents where you are concerned with being balance, the best way to play a nut hand vs a capped range on the river is to shove and to balance with an appropriately wide bluffing range. This doesn't have to preclude having a smaller value bet size for your weaker hands, as long as you have enough bluff candidates to balance both. The thing to see, though, is that it's not about what you risk with your bluffs, it's about what you make with your entire range. In a bluff-catching game where you are going to bet a balanced mix of value bets and bluffs, your EV is a function of the size of your bet, so you'd want to make the largest bet that you can with that range.

 

In a situation where you're concerned with balance, you'd want to 4bet AA. If you think they are going to fold way too much to 4bs and therefore you choose not to 4bet AA, then you are into exploitive territory and you don't need to worry about 4betting weak hands. Basically, you have to decide whether you're confident in your ability to make a good prediction about whether your opponents will respond to a bet and exploit it or not. When you aren't, then the balanced play IS the best way to play the hand. When you are, then you don't need to worry about being balanced.

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May 25, 2014 - 9:16 pm
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NatSel said:

Have to be honest here. I have tried many different training sites over the last 3 years.  Lot of good pros on this site that make a lot of good vids.  Andrew is in a different class. His “Theory Videos” have allowed me to play many spots and not just my cards.  Thanks Andrew.

Thanks, that's really great to hear (well, read)!

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May 25, 2014 - 10:31 pm
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Ill chime in a pat Andrew on the back.

  After taking a week or so away from the tables in order to learn and improve my game. Andrews hand reading videos helped me immensly in my first night back to the tables. 4 tournies 3 cashes and bankroll increased by nealry 10 percent in 5 hours. If variance hadnt of gotten me so deep into these fields I think I could have at least final tabled two of them and had a real chance at a win.

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May 26, 2014 - 5:38 am
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Foucault said:

huge said:

[I think from Carlos' comment above that this is the right place to post this, but if I'm wrong and I should put it in the Value-Targeting video comments or even in the general strategy forum, let me know]

 

Let's say you've watched all of Andrew's Hand Reading and Value Targeting vids, and you've mastered the concepts therein (half of those characteristics are true of me)…

 

You are last to act holding the nuts on the river, and you believe that the best hand to target in villain's range is strong enough to call a 2xPot overbet. Most of your opponents at the table, including villain, are very strong observant players, who have presumably noted that you are a thinking player who seems balance-aware. Would you ever consider betting a lesser amount because in a similar spot with a good bluffing hand you don't want to risk 2xPot on a bluff?  And then the obvious more general followup question: in a less crystal-clear example, do you ever/often give up some EV from a value-bet in order to balance (protect?) your *future* bluffs by making them less expensive/risky?  

 

My answer is no, I'm never going to leave significant immediate money on the table now just to possibly give me a more profitable or less risky opportunity later.  I might make my value-bet size bigger or smaller “to make it look more bluffy”, and that might or might not relate to hands villain has seen me play in the past, but it is still an attempt to maximize immediate EV.  

 

I think I'm grappling (awkwardly) with the concept of “protecting another part of my range”, which is not generally part of my thinking process at the table.  Maybe I've just cooked up an unlikely/unhelpful outlier case in which a desire to protect future hand ranges' balance has a clear-cut and immediate cost, whereas “you should 4-bet Aces to protect your light 4-bets” is more fuzzy because 4-betting AA has some pluses and some minuses and it's hard to quantify how much (if anything) you're giving up by not slowplaying them.

 

[Andrew if you read this, “huge” @ TPE is one and the same as “Luckbox Larry”, recent TP podcast correspondent. Knowing that I'm sure you'll see the sideways connection between this post and our email exchange – though I don't think it's the same question]

The very straightforward answer to this specific question is no, I wouldn't worry about that exactly. But in future spots against opponents where you are concerned with being balance, the best way to play a nut hand vs a capped range on the river is to shove and to balance with an appropriately wide bluffing range. This doesn't have to preclude having a smaller value bet size for your weaker hands, as long as you have enough bluff candidates to balance both. The thing to see, though, is that it's not about what you risk with your bluffs, it's about what you make with your entire range. In a bluff-catching game where you are going to bet a balanced mix of value bets and bluffs, your EV is a function of the size of your bet, so you'd want to make the largest bet that you can with that range.

 

In a situation where you're concerned with balance, you'd want to 4bet AA. If you think they are going to fold way too much to 4bs and therefore you choose not to 4bet AA, then you are into exploitive territory and you don't need to worry about 4betting weak hands. Basically, you have to decide whether you're confident in your ability to make a good prediction about whether your opponents will respond to a bet and exploit it or not. When you aren't, then the balanced play IS the best way to play the hand. When you are, then you don't need to worry about being balanced.

That's a great response (which I'll need to chew on for a while) “that it's not about what you risk with your bluffs, it's about what you make with your entire range”.

Are you suggesting that you should have something like a “big overbet with the nuts” range, a “big overbet bluff” range, a “smaller thin(ner) value-bet range”, and a “smaller bluff range”? (plus presumably a “passive give up or pot control or bluff-catch” range)  I guess you're capping your range with the smaller bets but that's OK if you strongly believe that villain's range is capped too (ie you can call a raise with your smaller value bets and fold or 3-bet your small bluffs)

I feel like there's a better way to express or ask about the issues I'm grappling with around balancing – I'll keep working on it.  Thanks for your replies, here and on TP.

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June 6, 2014 - 5:41 pm
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Getting Paid is an excellent series.  Thanks Andrew.

I have a question about something you touched on in the first video, but didn't really get into.  It was when you have TT on a K8X board and you want to get value out of 99 or 8X, etc.  You did mention that we have to be careful not to put too much money in the pot because somebody might be value betting us.

Well, I was wondering if this subject warrants a longer discussion?  It doesn't seem that the K8X board holding TT is a lone situation in that there are many other possible value hands that can want value from worse but can get destroyed by better. (AJ on an ATX board, KJ on a KQJ board .. there are probably better examples that I'm not thinking of).

Has there been a video on this matter – balancing value targeting with avoiding being value targeted?  Or is the answer: don't worry about it because by identifying proper value hands and hand reading you avoid getting value targeted?

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June 7, 2014 - 3:43 pm
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huge said:

Are you suggesting that you should have something like a “big overbet with the nuts” range, a “big overbet bluff” range, a “smaller thin(ner) value-bet range”, and a “smaller bluff range”? (plus presumably a “passive give up or pot control or bluff-catch” range)  I guess you're capping your range with the smaller bets but that's OK if you strongly believe that villain's range is capped too (ie you can call a raise with your smaller value bets and fold or 3-bet your small bluffs)

I feel like there's a better way to express or ask about the issues I'm grappling with around balancing – I'll keep working on it.  Thanks for your replies, here and on TP.

Yes, although the bit about Villain being capped is very important. This is more dangerous (though still not necessarily wrong) in an instance where Villain has some nut hands, because now he has the opportunity to check-raise your small bet which has capped your range.

I just blogged about a hand where this came up: …..t-results/

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June 7, 2014 - 3:50 pm
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derSchwartz said:

Getting Paid is an excellent series.  Thanks Andrew.

I have a question about something you touched on in the first video, but didn't really get into.  It was when you have TT on a K8X board and you want to get value out of 99 or 8X, etc.  You did mention that we have to be careful not to put too much money in the pot because somebody might be value betting us.

Well, I was wondering if this subject warrants a longer discussion?  It doesn't seem that the K8X board holding TT is a lone situation in that there are many other possible value hands that can want value from worse but can get destroyed by better. (AJ on an ATX board, KJ on a KQJ board .. there are probably better examples that I'm not thinking of).

Has there been a video on this matter – balancing value targeting with avoiding being value targeted?  Or is the answer: don't worry about it because by identifying proper value hands and hand reading you avoid getting value targeted?

Good question. I suppose I could have talked more about this when it comes to recognizing whether you have a value hand at all. I mean, when you have 33 on AKQJ8 you'd like to get value from 22 but probably you can't because even if your super-loose opponent will call with it he'll call with too many hands you're behind. Value betting requires being ahead of the whole range of hands that will call a bet, not just a specific target. The target only comes into play once you've decided you have a value hand.

Sometimes you have to aim lower than the most immediate choice to insure that you will be ahead. Your on AJ on ATx is a good example. If you are up against a range that contains AK/AQ/AT, it's not good enough to set A9 as your value target. You need to draw in a lot of weaker Aces and maybe even KK or Tx in order to be ahead of your opponent's range. That may require playing the hand differently than if you knew for a fact that Villain had A9.

That said, if you know your opponent will call with any pair when you have AJ on ATx, then there's no avoiding paying off AK. All you can do is keep his range wide enough that you are on-balance ahead when money goes in and suck it up that you are going to pay off better hands sometimes. You can write it off as a cooler as long as you haven't played your hand in a way that allows enough worse hands to fold.

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June 20, 2014 - 11:35 am
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On the 4th Getting Paid video about slowplaying I am wondering about the last example.

Brokos has QQ in the SB, hijack opens, CO calls, Brokos raises and gets a call from the opener, and the flop comes QhJh3d.

You describe well the reasons slowplaying works here – larger stack sizes relative to pot, villain possible 2nd best hands are few and Jacks will only be worth one bet, etc.  But you also mention that this flop would be a “controversial” one to slowplay and you describe that the free card could be costly.  This seems very clear. 

My questios are:

-do you consider betting the flop a genuine mistake or is there a size that appropriately gets some weak hands to come over the top (like draws or air) or that gets jacks to call along and maybe turn two pair with a larger pot?

-If you slow play and the turn is Th, what would you do? Would you check/call the turn?  What about a blank river after the scary turn like 5s?

Thanks again.

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June 20, 2014 - 5:34 pm
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Good questions, dS.

1. I have trouble thinking of opponents agaisnt whom betting the flop would be better than checking. I guess the type who try to win every pot and just contest way too many c-bets with very weak hands. But in general it's good to beef up your checking range (think how great it is for you to get a free card here if you have AK – checking hands like this makes it harder for people to bet you off of your checking range), and I think most people are just going to fold the flop really really often if you bet and also will bet at least some of the hands that would have called a bet.

2. The most significant thing about the Th on the turn is that it turns AK into a strong hand, and that was a big part of my checking range. However, it also creates a lot of draws, so I think a large bet is in order and will be called often. I'd expect to be raised very rarely and for Villain to have an extremly strong hand if he did raise, so I'd plan to call and check-fold the river unless I boated up or V bet very small. Check-calling the turn would be a big mistake mostly because I think V will check back very often with many hands that would call a bet, and not a lot of good things can happen for you on the river.

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November 17, 2015 - 1:23 pm
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Hello everyone… 

I have a question on Hand reading part 2 video… At around min 42. Andrew suggests Hero should bet AKxx on Kd2s3sAc4s. He says there are no draw/air hands on villains range therefore we should bet AK….

I beleive there is some chance Hero holds KK (I can’t see why Andrew thinks is unlikely enough to discount it from Hero’s range).

Andres says AK should bet… I understand, getting raised should be a snap fold since there is NOTHING we can beat… Am I correct? What if hero has AA or KK…. snap fold as well, or worth a call? 

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November 17, 2015 - 4:04 pm
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The main thing is to recognize that your choice is between bet-folding or check-folding. Because Villain isn’t likely to bluff, we can rule out check-call is an option. If you’re not clear on why that is, rewatch the video and perhaps Part 1 as well.

I don’t think the question of whether Hero could hold KK has much bearing on whether he can value bet AK.

As for whether you’d call a raise with AA or KK, if you think that AK is an easy fold to a raise, what makes AA or KK different? Which hands do you think Villain will raise that beat AK but not KK?

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November 18, 2015 - 2:04 am
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Thank you for your quick response Andrew… 

I am sorry, I didn’t mean Hero, Meant Villain holding KK you explicitly said villain can’t be holding KK, but yes it is on hero’s range… So many times on the very early levels I decide to flat call KK from an UTG raiser and see the flop… is unlikely I will get him off a hand like AQs with a 3bet (Again, early levels don’t create big pots preflop) the hands that AA or KK could beat but can’t beat AK are 22,33,44 which are included on the villian range. 

My logic behind flat calling KK as UTG raiser on the first or second level goes that if he actually has AQ, QQ, JJ I won’t make him lay down his hand… if the flop comes with no ace I may win some chips after villain’s cbet and win a medium sized pot, if it comes Axx I will lose less chips that if I raise pre, get called, and get checked to me, when I am facing the decision to cbet and an A is on board. I am just asking exclusively for the first two levels… is this logic wrong? What would be a better play and how to get more chips into the pot?

Back to my previous post: Is pretty clear to me that bet-fold is the best option (Is clear NOW thanks to your video) I actually made that kind of bet on a draw heavy board today ready to fold, got called and took a nice pot, certainly I would have checked called 1 day ago…

My question is just that considering villain probable holdings on 22,33,44 I would call a bet (If I checked as hero did) with AA or KK as a hero… would you consider that to be a mistake? Is it at all possible that a good villain would value bet 22,33,44,55 on a flush draw board that just got there?

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November 18, 2015 - 11:29 am
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I see. You’re right that it’s not impossible for Villain to have KK, but I don’t think it’s going to affect your play here much one way or the other (and when Hero has AK, of course, it’s even less likely). If your opponents are really going to fold QQ and JJ to a 3-bet, then sure, you should flat KK. I’d question that part of your analysis, though. After you finish the Hand Reading series, watch my Getting Paid series, I think it will help you think through this better.

I think it’s unlikely that 44 gets to the river at all. Even 22 and 33 probably raise before the river, though they’re more likely than 44. Still, even if you can shoehorn a few worse hands into his raising range, that doesn’t necessarily mean that you should call. You need to consider the pot odds and the likelihood that you are beat, as well.

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July 9, 2016 - 7:37 pm
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Hi Guys,

I just watched Andrew’s “Getting off on the right foot – Part 2”. It was a really informative video and allowed me to revisit topics that I was probably misconceiving so thank you. However, I was attempting to do the EV calculations using the scenario of semibluffing AJ from the video and I was stuggling to get the same answers as Andrew did. Below are his results/calculations and mine.

Firstly, he listed the equation for semibluffing EV as follows:
0.5*11648 + 0.5*(0.16*32282-10317) =
5824 – 4896 = 928

However, when I calculate it I get the following:
0.5*11648 + 0.5*(0.16*32282-10317) =
5824 – 2575 = 3249

Also, when solving for the fold percentage equal to checkEV, he gives the equation and solution:
1864 = F*11648 + (1-F)*(0.16*32282-10317)
1864 = 11648F – 9792 + 9792F
%F = 0.54

However, when I solve it (thinking back to highschool maths), I get:
1864 = F*11648 + (1-F)*(0.16*32282-10317)
1864 = F11648 + 5165.12 – 10317 – F5165.12 + F10317
7015.88 = 16799F
i.e. %F = 0.42

logically this result makes some sense because if semibluffing EV at 50% yields 3249 chips, then the %F that will equal check EV of 1864 has to be less than 50%.

It is highly unlikely that Andrew has errors in his calculations. What is probably a lock is that I misunderstand how to calculate it properly. Can anyone who has seen this video assist by steering me through the calculations as I would really like to get my head around EV and for that to happen I need to be able to calculate it properly.

Thanks guys,

Foucault

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July 10, 2016 - 11:52 am
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It is highly unlikely that Andrew has errors in his calculations”

I wish that were true. I’m tied up with WSOP stuff at the moment but I’ll double-check these when I get a chance, thanks for bringing to my attention.

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January 17, 2017 - 3:50 am
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roscommonrd’s corrections are correct and Andrew’s two calculations are incorrect.  This is my first day of subscription and first full video, and are these type of errors common in other videos?
 
For future videos involving math, please show the calculator being used, both to aid the student and to catch errors like these that are very frustrating when you don’t get the same answer and think that you are just too dumb!
 
 
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